Something Bright, Nutritious and Beyond the Valley of Good in Our City: Terre à Terreat
Anti-Establishment, Pro-Fun – putting fantasy and glory into vegetables and vegetarian stuff and nonsense.
I came to Brighton in 1991, a refugee from London. Two years after my entry to this ancient pile of history and its accompanying gunge, the very wondrous Terre à Terre was established by classically trained chefs Amanda Powley and Philip Taylor. They have been here ever since, their superlative restaurant surviving the pandemic, economic horrors and everything that this sad and sorry government has thrown at us. Theirs is a story of excellence. Theirs is a story of the avant-garde. Theirs is a story of Brighton at its best— its most creative.
And so, steeped in lovely vegetable juices and the virtues of exquisite ethical and sustainable foody, this brilliant and inspirational vegetarian restaurant lies at the very heart of all things great and good in our City. In my view it is the best restaurant in Brighton.
Bucking against all the screaming trends of the à la mode and pretentious in the foody scenario – Amanda and Philip operate in the land of inspiration that is all their own. The very names of their divine dishes have been the source of joy to both the frivolous and the wise, and a possible off-put to the dull and unimaginative… and that’s just fine with the fans.
Feast out on a Terre a Tapas, Better Batter, Hushpuppy Plumpkin or Who’s Shrooming Who, and experience something wonderful. Those like me with gluten problems have no problems here.
If you ever doubt the innate spirit, individuality and special characteristics that make this City a place of excellence, just think again. Creativity is alive and kicking in Brighton, in East Street. Just do Terre à Terre, have fun, and appreciate the sheer mastery of a cuisine in the hands of the super-talented. It’s a place of nutritious, unexpected and outrageous joy.